solder ball size for game console reballing
1x PS3 GPU (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x PS3 CPU(old version) (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x PS3 CPU(new version) (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x PS3 CXR714120 (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x PS3 CXD2964GB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x PS3 CXD2973GB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD2949CGB (0.76mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD9799GP (0.76mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD9833GB (0.76mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD2980BGB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD9209GB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD2976GB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD2992GB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
1x CXDT203-15 (0.76mm Soler Ball)
1x CXD2981GB (0.6mm Soler Ball)
XBOX 360 GPU (0.6mm Soler Ball)
XBOX 360 CPU (0.6mm Soler Ball)
XBOX 360 CSP (0.6mm Soler Ball)
XBOX 360 HANA (0.6mm Soler Ball)
XBOX 360 RAM (0.45mm solder ball)
2015年5月26日星期二
Repair - Motherboard
onto the repair, here are some items your gonna need, most you will likely have already:
Soldering station
(Unleaded) solder
Solder wick/braid
Fibreglass pen (If you don't have this you can use an exacto knife or razor but the fibreclass pen is by far the best and safest)
Liquid flux, preferably INSAT
Paste Flux
A magnifying glass (must have high powered magnifying range) or microscope.
Solder Mask
Toothpick (for applying flux paste and solder mask)
Ok so lets move on.
So the first thing you want to do is get your braid and dissect it a little, the easiest way i found was to pull each side and it it will begin to unravel. what we want are those single strands of the braid, once you have some you want to put some flux paste on them and tin with your unleaded solder.
Now you want to clean up your board with IPA or thinner, I pretty much use standard thinner for everything these days but each to their own. once it's all clean you will want to expose the copper traces, of the points you want to solder from, you will do this with your fibreglass pen, exacto knife or razor. (see below).
Clean the board up again.
You now want to tin your traces, with unleaded solder, the easiest way to do this is run your wick and some flux over the trace, you will find that a thin layer of solder will be attracted to the traces, just what we need.
Now get your insat and rub it over the tinned traces with a brush, wait a few minutes for it to get sticky, now you really need that magnifying glass, position the tinned wire on the trace with some tweezers, it should stick nicely cause of the INSAT, you want the wire going right into the pad area, it should reach one side of the pad fully to the opposite side of the pad (but no more).
Again using your magnifying glass gently tap along the wire at 1 second intervals from one end to the other (depending how long your trace needs to be, any size is fine actually), feel free to use a pair of tweezers to support the wire also and keep in mind that it might only take one tap to flow the wire to the trace, don't hold the iron on the trace cause you could sever it.
Finally test the continuity of the new points with a DMM, use the two furthest points of the exposed trace to confirm you did a good job.
Gently clean up the area, use Thinner then IPA or just IPA this time.
I actually redid the point closest to the bottom of the site as I was not happy that the wire did not fully cover the pad
Use a toothpick and some solder mask to tidy up the exposed parts of the board.
The reason we used unleaded solder is cause you will put a leaded GPU back on the board, the unleaded solder will stand firm at 190C meaning the solder ball will flow straight onto the trace wire you just created.
A word of caution, although your joints should be relatively solid, be aware not to mess around too much with the seating of the GPU before reflowing to the board, remember that the unleaded solder balls will automatically shift the GPU to its correct position in reflow state if your not exact.
I am not a big fan of the wire glues in the market, I tried them in the past on damaged pads I found they didn't hold upto the temps, plus I'm always wary of using glues on PCB's to form circuits. Maybe there are better ones now? I also heard of copper tape being used (the scaletrix type but again I would be worried about how adhesive would react at 190C but I'm happy with using unleaded solder as I know it will form as good a connection as you will get and be solid at leaded reflow temps.
Another option to consider, and you can incorporate this into the above guide if you like is to place a small amount of solder in the pad and then heat with a a hot air wand, it should naturally be attracted to the small trace repair you did, but these are all just ideas, you can play with.
Apologies for the pics, getting pcs of those tiny points is tough, if you open them and zoom in, you can see the points relatively clearly though...
Soldering station
(Unleaded) solder
Solder wick/braid
Fibreglass pen (If you don't have this you can use an exacto knife or razor but the fibreclass pen is by far the best and safest)
Liquid flux, preferably INSAT
Paste Flux
A magnifying glass (must have high powered magnifying range) or microscope.
Solder Mask
Toothpick (for applying flux paste and solder mask)
Ok so lets move on.
So the first thing you want to do is get your braid and dissect it a little, the easiest way i found was to pull each side and it it will begin to unravel. what we want are those single strands of the braid, once you have some you want to put some flux paste on them and tin with your unleaded solder.
Now you want to clean up your board with IPA or thinner, I pretty much use standard thinner for everything these days but each to their own. once it's all clean you will want to expose the copper traces, of the points you want to solder from, you will do this with your fibreglass pen, exacto knife or razor. (see below).
Clean the board up again.
You now want to tin your traces, with unleaded solder, the easiest way to do this is run your wick and some flux over the trace, you will find that a thin layer of solder will be attracted to the traces, just what we need.
Now get your insat and rub it over the tinned traces with a brush, wait a few minutes for it to get sticky, now you really need that magnifying glass, position the tinned wire on the trace with some tweezers, it should stick nicely cause of the INSAT, you want the wire going right into the pad area, it should reach one side of the pad fully to the opposite side of the pad (but no more).
Again using your magnifying glass gently tap along the wire at 1 second intervals from one end to the other (depending how long your trace needs to be, any size is fine actually), feel free to use a pair of tweezers to support the wire also and keep in mind that it might only take one tap to flow the wire to the trace, don't hold the iron on the trace cause you could sever it.
Finally test the continuity of the new points with a DMM, use the two furthest points of the exposed trace to confirm you did a good job.
Gently clean up the area, use Thinner then IPA or just IPA this time.
I actually redid the point closest to the bottom of the site as I was not happy that the wire did not fully cover the pad
Use a toothpick and some solder mask to tidy up the exposed parts of the board.
The reason we used unleaded solder is cause you will put a leaded GPU back on the board, the unleaded solder will stand firm at 190C meaning the solder ball will flow straight onto the trace wire you just created.
A word of caution, although your joints should be relatively solid, be aware not to mess around too much with the seating of the GPU before reflowing to the board, remember that the unleaded solder balls will automatically shift the GPU to its correct position in reflow state if your not exact.
I am not a big fan of the wire glues in the market, I tried them in the past on damaged pads I found they didn't hold upto the temps, plus I'm always wary of using glues on PCB's to form circuits. Maybe there are better ones now? I also heard of copper tape being used (the scaletrix type but again I would be worried about how adhesive would react at 190C but I'm happy with using unleaded solder as I know it will form as good a connection as you will get and be solid at leaded reflow temps.
Another option to consider, and you can incorporate this into the above guide if you like is to place a small amount of solder in the pad and then heat with a a hot air wand, it should naturally be attracted to the small trace repair you did, but these are all just ideas, you can play with.
Apologies for the pics, getting pcs of those tiny points is tough, if you open them and zoom in, you can see the points relatively clearly though...
What is the best advice for a young, first-time startup CEO?
Here are a few things I wish we knew when we first started:
Good luck!
- Determination is the biggest predictor of long-term success: Many inspirational founders shared their stories, including the CEOs of Pinterest and AirBnB. Nobody had an easy road. The AirBnB founders — with a company now valued at US$10-billion — had a famous story of hot gluing 1,000 cereal boxes to pay expenses in the early days. You can succeed, but often it is a matter of how badly you want to.
- You will grow what you measure: Take a sticky note, and write one goal on it. Be specific. Now place it on your bathroom mirror, so that each morning you’re reminded of your No. 1 growth priority. If you’re building a company, this should be a week-over-week metric such as users or revenue.
- Do not mistake activity for growth: Startup founders often don’t know what truly constitutes growth. Adding features to your product is not growth. Neither is getting a fancy office or going to a lot of events. Adding customers and building product counts as growth — that’s about it.
- The key to growth is progress: If you’re not moving forward, here is a way to get tasks done through a life hack called workstation popcorn. You start with a list of three tasks, each with sub tasks. You go to three coffee shops and only move to the next one when you’re done a task. Make progress each day and you win.
- The winner between the alligator and the bear is determined by the terrain: Not everyone is good at everything. Negotiate on your territory and play up your strengths.
- Make decisions quickly: This can be hard for first time founders, but remember that time is a cost. There are 24 hours in a day, and only about 10% of the information needed to make most decisions. Understand the magnitude of decisions you are required to make and prioritize accordingly. Train yourself to become decisive, so you can move forward with execution.
- Do not focus too much on competition: If I decided to become a basketball player tomorrow, do you think it would affect LeBron James’ career? Ignore the noise, because what others are doing is out of your control and they’re probably amateurs. Be aware of the players in the space you are in, but focus on getting to the top of your game.
- There is no substitute for hard work: When we first started market-testing 42, I spent weeks walking in and out of stores asking to speak with every associate and store manager. It was tough, but also gave me the most eye-opening insights. There’s no way around pushing code or making sales calls. The good news is that the tougher it is for you, the more difficult it is for others to replicate.
- Opportunity is everywhere: The first time I visited Silicon Valley I was very disappointed. There was no teleportation, no wireless ports, not even robots who greeted you at reception. Now I see it as great news, it means there are still countless opportunities for you to introduce ideas that will shape our future. Do NOT play victim (I'm too young, inexperienced, don't have this or that) - just get building.
Good luck!
iPhone 5 Glass Replacement
here experience doing a iPhone 5 GLASS ONLY replacement? Methods of removing the LCD and cleaning the adhesive on it?
Here's the method
MAKE SURE to take the backlight off the LCD, desolder it, and put tape on the rear of the LCD and Xacto around the edges ( be careful around the top by the ribbons it will break off)
-put a dummy backlight into the mold to mimick the regular height
-Loca the glass to the lcd
-before putting the backlight back on make sure and put tape down on the sides of the lcd that are the "rails" connecting the top and bottom. its the only way to get the frame to stick to the screen
-Solder backlight back on and make sure no light leaks out.
-put frame back on
-Refurbished!
Here's the method
MAKE SURE to take the backlight off the LCD, desolder it, and put tape on the rear of the LCD and Xacto around the edges ( be careful around the top by the ribbons it will break off)
-put a dummy backlight into the mold to mimick the regular height
-Loca the glass to the lcd
-before putting the backlight back on make sure and put tape down on the sides of the lcd that are the "rails" connecting the top and bottom. its the only way to get the frame to stick to the screen
-Solder backlight back on and make sure no light leaks out.
-put frame back on
-Refurbished!
wespro ns722 hang on logo
wespro ns722 hang on logo, how to install os?
try this
turn off computer
disconnect adapter
unplug battery
press and hold power buttun for 10 seconds
then release it
wait 30 minutes
plug battery
plug adapter
turn on computer
try this
turn off computer
disconnect adapter
unplug battery
press and hold power buttun for 10 seconds
then release it
wait 30 minutes
plug battery
plug adapter
turn on computer
ZM-R6200 bga rework station
Summary
◆ 3 independent heating system
ZM-R6200 is available heating portion of the PCB board by hot-air circulate both from top and bottom at the same time. With large IR bottom heating, it can completely avoid PCB deformation during reworking period, you can use software to choose freely or use top heater or bottom heater departly, and combine freely with top and bottom heater’s capacity,to make it easies for rework double BGA, CCGA, QFN, CSP, LGA, SMD etc. External sensor socket is precise detected temperature to analyze and proof on actual temperature curve of BGA at the same time.
◆ Precise optical alignment system
with optical alignment system and clear images, components can enlarge up to Maximum 230 times, mounting accuracy within +/-0.01mm, with a beam split, zoom in, zoom out and micro-adjust functions, adopted 12” HD monitor.
◆ Multi-function operation system
With touch screen interface, k-type thermocouple, close-loop control, and Intelligent temperature compensation with automatically system, integrated design of top heater and sucker point. it can auto identify a high degree of suction and mounting. with automatic soldering and desoldering functions. the temperature can be set to 6 segment and 6 segment constant temperature control, N groups of storage temperature setting parameters according to kinds of BGA chip set.
◆ Superior safety functions
after finish desoldering and soldering, there is alarming, when temperature goes out of control, the circuit will automatically power off, it is of double excess temperature protection function. Temperature parameter has a password to avoid arbitrary changes, with superior safe protection functions, can protect PCB, components and the machine from damage at any abnormal situation
◆ 3 independent heating system
ZM-R6200 is available heating portion of the PCB board by hot-air circulate both from top and bottom at the same time. With large IR bottom heating, it can completely avoid PCB deformation during reworking period, you can use software to choose freely or use top heater or bottom heater departly, and combine freely with top and bottom heater’s capacity,to make it easies for rework double BGA, CCGA, QFN, CSP, LGA, SMD etc. External sensor socket is precise detected temperature to analyze and proof on actual temperature curve of BGA at the same time.
◆ Precise optical alignment system
with optical alignment system and clear images, components can enlarge up to Maximum 230 times, mounting accuracy within +/-0.01mm, with a beam split, zoom in, zoom out and micro-adjust functions, adopted 12” HD monitor.
◆ Multi-function operation system
With touch screen interface, k-type thermocouple, close-loop control, and Intelligent temperature compensation with automatically system, integrated design of top heater and sucker point. it can auto identify a high degree of suction and mounting. with automatic soldering and desoldering functions. the temperature can be set to 6 segment and 6 segment constant temperature control, N groups of storage temperature setting parameters according to kinds of BGA chip set.
◆ Superior safety functions
after finish desoldering and soldering, there is alarming, when temperature goes out of control, the circuit will automatically power off, it is of double excess temperature protection function. Temperature parameter has a password to avoid arbitrary changes, with superior safe protection functions, can protect PCB, components and the machine from damage at any abnormal situation
How to Reset a Lost Admin Password on Mac OS X
Two Methods:Using System Preferences and Using Single-User Mode
If your Apple is running OS X, and you are having trouble accessing the administrator's account, follow these few easy steps that will get you full administrative control.
Method 1 of 2: Using System Preferences
If your Apple is running OS X, and you are having trouble accessing the administrator's account, follow these few easy steps that will get you full administrative control.
Method 1 of 2: Using System Preferences
1. Go to the Apple menu in the upper right hand side of the screen and click "Log out username".
2.On the accounts presented in the menu select the admin account and enter the password.If you keep on failing, it will ask for your master password that can be changed at the Security menu in system preferences.
Method 2 of 2: Using Single-User Mode
Forget your password to the only administrator account on your Mac? Unable to install software or even log in because you just can't remember which one of your favorite pets you used for the password? Or do you need to access the Super-User (root) account to make changes not allowed even to Administrators?
No worries! We're going to reset that pesky password without losing any of your data or files - and it only takes about five minutes!
1.Access Single-User mode.
(1)Shutdown your computer. (Turn it right off - do not restart.)
(2)Use your left hand to hold down the 'Apple' or 'Command' key on the keyboard (directly beside the space bar) and the letter 'S' . Hold both of these together and do not let go through the next step.Turn the computer on, ensuring that you are still holding the 'Command' and 'S' keys.
(3)Wait until you see a bunch of white writing scrolling by on a black screen. You can release the keys, and you are now in Single-User mode. The computer is ready to continue when you see localhost:/ root# or something similar as the very last line on the screen.
2 Check the drive for errors. Next we want to check the drive for errors (and fix them if there are any). We do this because of the power of Single-User Mode, we do not want to be making massive changes to the file-system if there are underlying issues which could be made worse. Right after the # on the last line of the screen type fsck -fy and press [Return] when the process is finished (approximately two to three minutes) you will seelocalhost:/ root# (henceforth referred to as the prompt) again.
3 Access the drive so that we can make changes. Before you can reset your password you need to mount the drive; this will allow you to make changes to files. At the prompt type mount -uw / and press [Return].
4 Reset the password.
(1)Type launchctl load /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.opendirectoryd.plist and press [Return].
(2)Type ls /Users and press [Return]. A list of all of the accounts on your computer will be listed along with 'Public'
(3)Type dscl . passwd /Users/username password while replacing username with one of the users displayed in the previous step and replacing password with the new password of your choice. Press [Return]. Ignore error message appearing after entering this command.
5 Restart the computer and try the new password. At the prompt type reboot[Return]. The computer will restart and you will now be able to use your new password.
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